Capraia ...
volcanic getaway

The small volcanic island of Capraia, Italy is located north of Elba off the Western coast of the mainland. The volcano that created the island has long been silent and so to is the one small town that surrounds the one small port on the island. The only way to reach Capraia is by boat. Leaving from Livorno, the trip only takes about two hours. There are only about ten miles worth of roadway on Capraia but if you are traveling by car and need to bring it with you, the ship does brings vehicles along.

It took a day or so to warm up to this rocky island, though our apartment had a great view of the hills and out over the port to the sea and was very comfortable. At first our thoughts were, so what will we do here for a full week? It was not long before the little island began to grow on us. First we began to enjoy the little bus that brings you up the only main road from the port to the town; rather like a trolley that just goes back and forth. Then we started to walk and made a few short excursions on trails to the sea. Eventually we found a private cove where it was fairly easy to swim from the rocky shore, and the route the locals follow to reach some flat rocks below the old fortress ruin that once guarded the port. We had no problem finding places to relax and things to do from then on.

It is important to note that Capraia is not a good destination for all travelers. There are a few shops and stores but only to buy what you need. A shopping experience is not to be had on Capraia. There are also a few restaurants. When we ate out, the food was good and the atmosphere was both lively and jovial. But there is no nightlife "scene" on Capraia. Capraia is not Capri! It is somewhat reserved and sleepy aside from the children who come out to play in the square as the sun sets and the temperature drops. The sounds of Capraia range between the children calling to one another as they roam back and forth through the small center of town and the adults, with an occasional foreign tourist, walking and talking on the street below your windows.

Capraia has a very small population of year-round residents, only about 80! During the summer months the population is boosted by Italians that spend their summers in houses and apartments they either own or rent for the season along with tourists who can either rent an apartment (as we did), or take a room at one of the few small hotels. Every day the boat comes into the port to bring mail, water, supplies and people. There is a momentary traffic jam with the appearance of a high degree of activity in the port for about 30 minutes. Then all returns to normal as the boat leaves. Apparently taking with it as many cars, trucks, and people as it brought over. The ebb and flow of day to day life in the uphill town is very soothing punctuated by the arrival of the small bus from the port and times when a soccer ball gets lodged up high in a niche on the facade of the church that lies along side the small town-center square.

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