Elba ...
Napoleon Slept Here
page 2 - return to page 1
Tourism is a "sweet and sour" proposition to both the hosting region as well as the visitors. All travel destinations whose core values relate to history, culture and ancient architecture run a heavy risk of destroying the very thing that draws visitors by becoming too popular. Italy is at particular risk when developing new accommodations to house and entertain the large numbers of foreign tourists that converge on the country, especially in the summer. But, like the United States, Italians like to travel and vacation within their own country. Their interests are not always in sync with those on a pilgrimage to see ancient wonders. Elba, for the moment, is maintaining a nice balance. Aside from the inevitable cell phone towers (I will not diverge to that topic here), the countryside and the towns of Elba are not spoiled by many tall new structures. There are resorts of course but they tend to be off by themselves tucked into the coast and have not impacted on the older towns or on the rocky coastlines. Fortunately the temptation to develop large high-rise shore-line resorts has thus far been avoided.
Do not expect to be lone bathers on a pristine sandy beach. All of the nice beaches tend to be rather crowded and most have some degree of "creature comfort" by way of neatly arranged umbrellas and deck chairs that must be rented or belong to a particular resort. You can always walk the seashore because nobody can actually "own" the coast for about nine meters from high tide. A resort can own the easiest access to a beach, especially when it is surrounded by rock cliffs, which is the most common method of making a good beach "exclusive". Most Italians and many Europeans come to Elba to be at or on the sea. During the peak of the "vacation month" of August, these areas will definitely be very crowded.
But swimming and sunning can be just as enjoyable and quite a bit more tranquil from one of many rocky beaches or simply from a naturally accommodating stretch of rocks along the coast. Driving along the coastal roads you often see a small group of cars pulled off the road wherever space allows. These people have typically descended to the sea by way of a path to a usable and often beautiful place devoid of commercial intrusion. Do some exploring to find the best spot and then pack a lunch with bottles of water, some local wine and snorkeling equipment for a quiet day at the sea. A few things to remember along a rocky coast at the sea are to definitely have a pair of "water shoes" and watch out for jelly fish and sea urchins!
The sea surrounding Elba is clear, clean and easy to get to but it is the diversity of the island that has left a lasting impression and a desire to return. The topography and vegetation varies from one end of this small island to the other with rounded granite outcroppings and low-growing plants to the west, a forested interior of pine and chestnut, and the rugged multi-hued peaks and tree-covered hills of the mining centers to the east. One feels they have traveled far, based upon the views, in only 30 minutes. The mining history and its remains are fascinating not to mention the fact that the mineral wealth of the ancient rocks of Elba have by no means been eliminated. Rock hunting for Neanderthal stone tools to semi-precious gems is still practiced. Attention to avoiding the well known vipers of Elba needs to be maintained whenever poking around their habitat but that should no more prevent exploration than does the rattlesnake keep people away from the Grand Canyon. Aside from the ever-present emperor of France, history is softly spoken in Elba but very much alive at every turn. It is said that Napoleon often sat by the sea on the west coast and gazed longingly at the island of Corsica in the distant haze. For those of us that have not lost an empire, reversing one's view back to Elba is more than enough.
... back to page 1
