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Maratea ... a surreal landscape
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But only a lunatic would rent an apartment on the coast of the sea to hike inland, right? The sea at Maratea is beautiful and extremely clean and the coastline is composed of some of the strangest rock formations imaginable, in may cases resembling imaginary worlds in the solar system. Caves and grottos are quite common along the coast though access to the water is not always easy. Once you start to putter along with a raft or flippers and a mask, you will easily lose track of time and burn the hell out of your back in the process!

Days in Maratea are easily spent jumping into the sea and exploring the amazing rocky terrain of the coast until lunch and then returning, maybe to a beach for a change, in the afternoon. Every beach we visited shared the interesting quality of having a cold fresh water stream running down from the mountains into the beach area. This made the sea near the shoreline a mixture of warm salt and cool fresh water. The streams were also very handy for cleaning off the salt and gravel from the beach. The beaches in this region are composed of water-worn pebbles, some containing fairly large stones up to near the water's edge. A pair of water shoes can greatly enhance the fun of poking along the shoreline but are absolutely imperative for walking along the rocky coastline.

The salt from the sea is everyplace. The house we had rented was only 100 meters uphill from the sea. After four days, our bedroom and bedding began to feel like the inside of a submarine. The air was hot, humid and motionless. The sheets were so sticky from salt air that rolling over required a conscious effort ... no sliding motion was possible. Italians do not believe in room fans or window screens and air conditioning is very uncommon. Thankfully I had anticipated this and brought a few small battery operated mini-fans. When the terrace doors from our bedroom to the patio had to be closed at night to keep out the many hungry insects, that still hot air quickly became suffocating to someone from a temperate climate.

Yet, until actually going to bed, the balmy evenings enjoyed from our patio overlooking the sea were incredibly relaxing. The deafening sound of the Cicadas that cluster in groups of larger Carob trees softens in the dusk. Occasionally the small local fishing boats would concentrate in the area just offshore below our patio. The slow circular movement of the boats, each with a small light and softly chugging engine became mesmerizing. The result of the night's harvest was available in town the next day along with other local specialties such as mozzarella and ricotta cheese.


Comment By: Erika
If you are looking for a part of Italy that has not yet become overrun with tourism, this is it. It's a real slice of heaven. The coastal views are breathtaking and the hill towns have an old-world charm. Most people don't speak English and it's not easy to get around if you don't have a car, but if you're up for an adventure this place is one in a million. I spent a week near Maratea with my family last summer and felt completely removed from the stresses of modern life.
Comment By: maryann
We are planning to move to live permanenty and retire in Italy in about 3 years. We are going in July for 2 weeks to travel through the coastline regions, east and west to choose the region to someday buy a small home in. I want to be near people, in not too tiny of a town. I cannot decide if from Salerno, I should make plans to travel to Maratea and look into living in that northern Calabria area. I lvoe the beach, and want to be near mountains and sea, however...I read your story. After Maratea, I planned on going up to the Pescara or south of Pescara to look around. We only have 15 nights to go from Rome to as far south as Maratea (possibly), then to the East coast, but not close to Bari. Do lyou suggest staying in Salerno and making a short trip to Maratea for the day, or do yo thik I should plan to stay in Maratea for 2 nights to look around? I also want to be near good hospitals. Thank you for the input. I really appreciate it.
Comment By: NotAMall Admin
Maratea and the surrounding area is really beautiful and I highly recommend it as a place to visit, but based on what you have said I doubt you would want to live there. It is a very small town and very isolated. I'm not sure how far the nearest full featured hospital is, but it is not in the town itself. I would suggest that you not exclude the north of Italy, Tuscany for example is very beautiful and has gorgeous coastlines.
Comment By: Douglas
A small point but meaningful in Italy nonetheless: This essay begins by referring to Basilicata as a province. Administratively it is not a Province, but a Region, consisting of two Provinces, Potenza and Matera.
Comment By: Claire
Can anyone tell me where the best place to rent a car for a trip to
Maratea would be? We are traveling from Rome by train, but not sure if
there are car rentals there or maybe we should rent in Naples or Salerno? Thanks for any help. We'll be there a week.
Comment By: Ashley
I was in Maratea this past summer and spent an afternoon on one of the most amazing beaches in the world. I think it was called Spiaggia Nera (black beach) because the sand is actually black. There is a waterfall that comes down from the hill behind the beach and splashes onto the sand and on one end of the beach there is a huge grotto that you can walk through in an outcropping of rocks. Totally amazing, but don't expect 5 star service in this area, it's pretty rural.
Comment By: olivier duchesnes
Hello
I'm Belgian and I'be there for 20 years now and even for 2 millions dollar reward I will never give my turn to anyone on this Earth.My wife is Italian from Calabria and we found Maratea by chance it is the best I ever can rememeber moment in my life we also plan to retire there in the future when children will leave the nest. Happy summer in Maratea please don't tell others about this place. Keep it secret for yourselves. It is not a joke. olivier.duchesneséskynet.be

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